Here, compiled for easy reference, are our reviews of the Spring/Summer 2025 shows from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Kuala Lumpur 2024.
Dickson Lim
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The polished and sharp cuts of Dickson Lim suits have always been synonymous with refined masculinity, but this season, the Sarawakian designer reveals a surprising facet: a hopeless romantic. Entitled “Mutation of Love, In the Sands of Time,” the collection is a poetic exploration of transformation.
“To be loved is to be changed” serves as the emotional core of the collection, as Lim candidly translates his personal journey onto the runway. Classic suit silhouettes are deconstructed and reimagined, challenging conventions at every turn. A double-breasted blazer morphs into five distinct styles, while tailored pant skirts make a bold statement.
An unlikely muse, superheroes from comic books, inspired a collaboration with Jun that yielded 3D accessories exclusive to the show. Flame-like embellishments and anime-inspired eyewear infuse the suits with a playful, almost cartoonish energy.
This year, the Dickson Lim Spring/Summer 2025 collection presents a successful experiment in evolution, proving that even with countless iterations, there’s still room for something new within the confines of the traditional.
Double Back
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Every generation has its own gripes, but one universal complaint unites us all: the monotony of the daily grind. Double Back’s latest collection approaches this struggle with a humorous and relatable approach. The runway was a visual representation of the office worker’s existential crisis. Models embodied the overworked intern, with dark circles, messy hair, and a general air of exhaustion.
The collection began with classic workwear staples that were deconstructed and exaggerated, transforming the button-up into a puffer and the briefcase into a half-open mess. As the show progressed, the looks blended the formal with the casual, reflecting the desire to escape the office. Sleek tailored pants were paired with combat boots, and formal skirts were cut shorter for a party-ready vibe.
Finally, the collection concluded with loungewear, symbolising the ultimate surrender to the 9-to-5 grind. At the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Kuala Lumpur 2024, Double Back once again perfected their signature recipe, using the relatability of the familiar to communicate their collection to the audience. And once again, they have proven why they’re the best at this formula.
A-Jane
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There are countless ways to approach a fashion collection. Designers often draw inspiration from their personal beliefs, experiences, or even a part of themselves they wish to expose. However, sometimes, the most profound insights come from asking the right questions. For Spring/Summer 2025, designer A-Jane Chang does just that, prompting contemplation while offering her own unique perspective.
The title “Refraction” is a fitting choice. While it might not be immediately apparent, upon deeper reflection through the label’s philosophical lens, the collection beautifully balances the Yin and Yang of reality—a concept rooted in ancient Chinese philosophy that posits everything in the universe exists as complementary opposites. This balance is reflected in the designs’ visual language, with black and white dominating the colour palette and looks seamlessly complementing each other.
A-Jane’s collection asks, “What is your perception of reality?” The answer is multifaceted. Reality, as presented here, is not fixed but distorted, manipulated, and refracted through various mediums. The dresses showcase a variety of silhouettes, the fabrics experiment with different shapes, and the cuts are sharp and boxy.
Art philosophy, with music and sound as inspiration, has always been at the core of A-Jane’s designs. In “Refraction,” the label transformed waves into light and a fashion collection into a thought-provoking piece, perfectly positioning themselves as a brand that is both intellectual and crafted.
Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our August 2024 issue.
