Things are getting conspicuous at Saint Laurent. Its Men’s Autumn/Winter 2023 collection — unlike any other — bucks the normative association between men’s suits and masculinity, where creative director Anthony Vaccarello once again redefines menswear codes by taking a page from the success of his Spring/Summer 2023 women’s collection in literal forms.
“There’s an evolution [here] into a new collection, but I’d like to start with what he could have worn from the woman last season, and how he can reinterpret that in his own way,” mentions Vaccarello of the collection.
Taking place at the tarted-up Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, which has been renovated by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, and accompanied by the attendance of just over 100 guests that flanked the rotunda clad in concrete-hued carpet, the beautiful yet poignant soundtrack resonates perfectly with the muted yet tastefully-crafted collection.
The collection sees no less a proposal of dress dipped in a palette composed by black, white, camel, navy and flashes of silver. The restrained colour scheme allows Vaccarello’s impeccable prowess in creating immaculately-cut designs to shine. A sequel to the previous collection characterised by slender figure punctuated with structured shoulders, the current collection creates a decent contrast with a more relaxed approach in his new proposal.
Where the fashion house is known for its Le Smoking jacket, which initially borrowed ideas from the playbook of menswear and eternally transformed women’s dressing, the reciprocal influence between both gender lines takes expression in a mutual exchange much focused on the house’s women’s collection.
The crispness that is usually found in Saint Laurent’s designs is tempered with soft and flowy fabrics — thanks to its use of mohair, cashmere, satin and velvet. It is also showcased through the creations of pristine white blouse with the adornment of exaggerated bow; tunic-like turtleneck knit top; drapey cagoule blouse that is inspired by his women’s show held iconically underneath the beam of the Eiffel Tower.
Images courtesy of Saint Laurent. Discover more about the Saint Laurent Men’s Autumm/Winter 2023 by Anthony Vaccarello on Saint Laurent’s official website and stores.
