In Hedi Slimane’s eyes, when despair is all that is left — one laments a time, place and identity that exist far away for the imagination to escape to. Titled The Bright Young, Celine’s Spring Summer 25 menswear collection delves into another facet of its vivid cinematic universe. Inspired by Evelyn Waugh’s novel Vile Bodies, SS25 embodies the fleeting exuberance and sophistication of London’s high society post-World War I.
Presented as a film, the collection is set against the walled gardens of Holkham Hall, Norfolk. Home to the Earls of Leicester, the Neo-Palladian country house serves as a grand backdrop to portray Celine’s paradoxical vision of imperial grace and youthful hedonism. Gravel pathways, immaculately manicured landscapes and grand marble walls imbue Celine’s tailoring with a regal spirit. Crisp and vibrant in its visuals, the tone of this presentation feels statuesque and stately—much like a ceremonial broadcast.
Of horses, Etonian scholars and aristocratic bloodlines, SS25 may appear costume-like upon first impression due to its audacious set and obvious styling choices, especially featuring Eton alum Harry Lloyd Yorke as the show opener. In true Celine spirit, the magic of this collection lies in the synergy of craft and storytelling. Once distilled and removed from the stylised fanfare, the rich tapestry of Celine’s house codes reveals themselves. Referencing 20th-century military uniforms, the Celine patches are made with polished silver cannetilles. Rather than canvas, cricket and boating blazers are crafted from summer cashmeres and wool for a luxurious hand feel.
Slimane’s vibrant vision and Celine’s craftsmanship are further demonstrated through artisanal detailings, featuring hand-embroidered motifs made with sequins, crystals and pearls on waistcoats and gilets. True to the 1920s English spirit, models strut across the lush facade of Holkham Hall wearing Richelieu shoes, monks and tapered derbies. For the superfan, the humble bicycle receives a Celine makeover, featuring natural leather seats—perfect for a leisurely ride by the English countryside.
While some critics may argue that Slimane’s consistent artistic vision is a sign of lacking versatility, this collection builds on his body of work andrepresents a form of resistance against aimless, arbitrary change in an era of chasing trends. At Celine, there is a sense of universality embedded. While Slimane professes his love for Anglomania, the social savvy plays dress-up with labels and connoisseurs luxuriate in pieces designed to stand the testof time.
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