Reviving the past while embracing the future takes a special kind of vision, especially when stepping into the creative helm of a house as legendary as Valentino — a maison adorned with decades of iconic creations. For every new creative director, the challenge is clear: innovation must honour the soul of the house, not erase it. At Valentino, Alessandro Michele has taken on this challenge with an audacity that feels both bold and graceful.
When Alessandro Michele was announced as Valentino’s new creative director, the news sent shockwaves through fashion’s inner circle. It was bold, unexpected, and, honestly, a bit thrilling. Known for transforming the quirky and geeky into high-fashion must-haves at Gucci, Michele’s appointment immediately sparked curiosity. Would he bring the same maximalist magic to Valentino, or would it be something entirely different? One thing was certain, nobody doubted his ability to make us want whatever he was about to create.
His debut collection for Spring 2025, titled Avant les Débuts — or “Before the Beginnings” — is a love letter to Valentino’s rich past. It reads like a dictionary of the house’s DNA, cataloging its iconic codes like intricate beadwork, delicate floral appliqués, lace, and polka dots. Yet Michele’s genius lies in presenting these elements through a bohemian lens, weaving fabrics like silk, chiffon, velvet, and satin into a vision that is both romantic and contemporary. This homage is proof that before building a new future, one must first understand the past.
Avant les Débuts strikes a delicate balance between nostalgia and reinvention. Classic Valentino nostalgia meets contemporary twists, as seen in the Valentino Chromaton Sneaker, a sporty silhouette with ballet-inspired laces, and the Valentino Viva Superstar, which is already an instant classic. Retro knit vests, bandanas, and headscarves ground the collection in nostalgia while reimagining it with a modern edge. It is a reminder that fashion always comes full circle, and the future does not have to be a complete break from the past — it can be a continuation.
Michele’s approach is both philosophical and deeply personal. As he reflects, “When we move, there is always a house we leave behind and a new one where we decide to dwell.” This collection is a translation of that transition, an emotional farewell to the past and an enthusiastic embrace of the future. It is an introduction, a tribute, and above all, a promise of what is to come under Michele’s architectural vision for Valentino.
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