Dolce&Gabbana isn’t one to be particularly complicated with their messaging, but today’s constant refocusing of the phone camera’s lens on the runway amidst a million and one camera flashes felt like a commentary of sorts about the way fashion coverage has changed over the past two years. Or perhaps, the way it has stayed the same since the dolce vita era; our insatiable hunger for the personal and private worlds beyond balls and parties a force to be reckoned with as what’s public and private continues to evolve with time. But did they really need 69 looks to say this?

For FW25, the celebrated Italian designer duo have taken things out of ordinary proportions to embrace the new breathing space of the season’s schedule in Milan. Titled Paparazzi, this season stages a scene straight out of a red carpet; cameras (held by models poised as cameramen) flash continuously at celebrity characters, except everyone is off-duty — the silhouettes and lines are kept soft this season, many oversized to accompany lived-in pleated trousers, leather and denim. T-shirts are worn as if they were meant to be the innermost layers of warm ensembles, while handmade sweaters crafted from thick yarns further this cosy inclination.

Except that is only part one of Domenico and Stefano’s offerings, part two being an actual eveningwear array that showcases what the Italian designer duo does best — tailoring. Tuxedos, waistcoats, silk trims and double breasted closures; these last 19 looks were giddy with opulence and also highlighted the rare sight of the house doing a more extensive jewellery stint (in the form of brooches and necklaces) for menswear.

This could perhaps be attributed to us entering a time where the gears of fashion have taken a hit to re-centre and calibrate amidst a climate of economic uncertainty. While it’s understandable for brands to consolidate their creative output into co-ed shows, a change in the environment is not always a cue to cut and scale down. In fact, it presents an opportunity for something more, something quite bold — a style Dolce&Gabbana is not just familiar with, but also fond of, and great at executing to near perfection.

Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our December/January 2025 issue.