In an era of culture where creators and influencers clamour to co-opt the latest microtrends to present a sense of originality as early adopters, there is little value to portray ourselves as monolithic disciples of a certain tribe who came to be having lived certain lives or upheld certain values. As fashion moves at breakneck speed in pursuit of its next façade to occupy, has the near-dogmatic approach to minimalism—with its embrace of universality and rejection of excess—become less than alluring in the present?

With COS presenting its FW24 collection for both the main and Atelier line during NYFW, minimalism finds its footing by returning to its roots, literally. Rather than relying on high-strung, far-fetched concepts, the 43-look collection requires little pretense, context or subtext to appreciate. Held at Brooklyn Navy Yard, the choice of New York to showcase this collection perhaps offers a sense of candour. Far from the often-perceived frou-frou of European fashion capitals, New York is where fashion unapologetically intersects with commerce, and where aspirations are rooted in heightened material reality.

Emerging from its former impressions of rigidity and sterility, nature becomes FW24’s main source of inspiration. Across earthy hues and textures, COS demonstrates modern tailoring and craftsmanship in ways that are tactile, fluid and organic. Wardrobe staples are softened and relaxed to easily transition from day-to-evening dressing, featuring barrel-leg trousers, silk shirts and cowl neck knits that caress against the body. Tactile cashmere layers that resemble lush, mossy glades are paired with unstructured, oversized suiting to create cohesive, tonal looks. Outerwear presented is relaxed and unstructured, with soft jackets that feature shearling trims, oversized lapels and collars.

In COS’ Atelier line, pieces speak in the language of movement. Drawing inspiration from ballet, sculptural elements are contrasted with translucency and fluidity. Compared to the main line, Atelier conducts an even more pronounced demonstration of minimalism and its eagerness to stay current—expressed through lithe motions of ballerinas that move in sync with a symphony. Standout pieces include oversized blazers feature dramatic peak lapels and shawl collars, befitting of the Lydia Társ of the world.

As 2024 approaches an end, COS and the many disciples of minimalism offer an arbitration towards its changing world. Rather than a strict diet of neutrals and cookie-cutter silhouettes that veterans are accustomed to in previous decades, this collection offers a universality that plays nice with a wardrobe of many identities, seamlessly assimilating into the Quiet Luxuries, the Office Sirens and the Grandpa Cores and many of its unnamed variants of the future.

Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our September 2024 issue.