To mirror the other-worldly offerings at Fendi, Silvia Venturini Fendi goes back to the house’s 1990s archives as a way of merging the label’s past, present and future.

For centuries, astrology has been used as a navigation tool for everything from travel to meteorology and — especially of late — relationships. Fendi taps into astrology’s hold on the cultural zeitgeist, combining it with the resurgence of the 1990s nostalgia for the Fendi Astrology Summer Capsule ’23. This other-worldly range includes pieces inspired by the 12 astrological constellations while revisiting the Maison’s Spring/Summer ’90 and ’93 archives.

The menswear range — courtesy of artistic director of accessories and menswear Silvia Venturini Fendi — is a nod to the ease of travel, blending fun with functionality. Playful updates on swim and beachwear are translated through sporty silhouettes previously seen on Fendi’s Spring/Summer ’93 runway. The popularity that 1990s dressing has on Millennials and Gen Z-ers is further seen with the ideal beachfront ensemble comprised of astrology-printed silk shirts, magnetic nylon boardshorts and sleek jersey T-shirts alongside dynamic denim and technical gabardine outerwear. The ready-to-wear range is crafted to take the wearer from afternoons lounging by the pool to sunset evenings by the beach. Loose tailoring and slouchy silhouettes mirror the relaxed and escapist mood of the collection.

The collection’s high point is showcased in the capsule’s accessories — particularly the Fendi Peekaboo and Baguette bags, which also carry the exclusive astrological narrative. Meticulous astrological embroideries embellish the new iterations of the signature bags. Zodiac motifs make an appearance on shadow leather in shades of blue and beige, and are further adorned with pearls and bright-coloured threads sewn across the canvas and jacquard bodies. The Fendi Baguette Soft Trunk comes in either the new astrology motif or the classic Fendi monogram. Longstanding fans of the Fendi monogram can also find new iterations on the Fendi Shadow Clutch, Camera Case and Tote bags.

Fendi’s Summer ’23 Summer capsule highlights the Italian House’s craftsmanship by infusing and updating it with sportswear codes as seen in languid summer knits, sun-bleached denim and silk jersey — each finished with modern, contemporary finesse.

The collection’s final touch comes in the form of jewellery. Fendi’s artistic director of jewellery, Delfina Delettrez Fendi designed zodiac pieces to complement the ready-to-wear. Lovers of maximalism can indulge in the offerings that include statement necklaces and bold fabric bracelets, while those who prefer minimalistic pieces can opt for sleek charms and crystal studs that can be worn as a single earring or as a muted necklace pendant.

Again, Fendi successfully reimagines menswear with a subversive take on clothing and breaks down conventional tropes on sartorial masculinity. The fluidity of silk and other materials mirrors the fluid gender ambiguity of the pieces. There is a harmony between traditional tailoring juxtaposed with delicate accessories and exquisite jewels. While Fendi’s Spring/Summer ’23 menswear runway collection saw 1990s denim workwear and Californian skate culture, the Summer ’23 capsule evokes the effervescent spirit of summer and the romanticism of a journey away from corporate life and normalcy.