Rather than challenge the notions of beauty and ugliness, and subvert conventions, Prada sheds all artifice for Spring/Summer ’25, revealing itself as an entity with a point of view, and not one that merely reacts to the world’s indecisive trend cycles. With models marching out from a white hut complete with picket fence, the collection begins from the symbolic heart of the brand — home.
Titled “Closer”, its idea of togetherness serves as a double entendre, reflecting the intimacy of Prada’s vision and how the garment embraces the skin. Each design is imbued with details that invite a closer look where truth and pretence can only be differentiated upon closer inspection. Presenting a series of looks that are shrunken and lithe, Prada is not looking to boast a larger-than-life impression but instead resemble an individual who holds on to sentimental objects through a life well lived. Hemlines are shortened across car coats, cardigans and knits, while herringbone trousers are slung low on the waist. A breeze of rebellion caresses the naval, breaking up the rigidity of classic menswear staples.
At first glance, there is a rudimentary appeal that harkens back to Web 1.0 graphics and costumes of characters from The Sims. Cyan, hedge green, fuchsia, violet and citrine imbue colour-blocked sweaters and blousons with a garish impression that softens towards the periphery. In high contrast, the eyes are immediately drawn to details that present a harmonious mismatch. Wire-lined collars on jackets and Breton shirts with irregular stripes that contour the body create a sense of dynamism, challenging the notion of prim, proper and symmetrical. The styling conveys a sense of freedom, where one does not have to adhere to the concept of a “full look” or limit oneself to strict rules in dress to evoke personal style — you can be formal, athletic and casual all in the same outfit.
Masculine or feminine, real or artificial — one’s identity is not a spontaneous decision, nor is it merely a costume. At Prada, the lived-in details on these garments suggest history, context, and decisions made in kinship that have been passed down through generations. There is an element of playing grown-up in both Mum and Dad’s closets, where a caricature of an adult is presented in the form of button-down shirts and boiler suits for labour.
Within the child’s worldview, vistas of poolside escapades and soldout concerts permanently adorn the lens of statement sunglasses, further blurring the lines of realness. On their feet, chunky athletic trainers and steelcap derbies make the perfect, practical option for endless exploration.
Perhaps it is not Prada’s insistence on being different for the sake of it that makes it endlessly current. In a collection that condenses the best of Prada’s values, the directness of these designs paints a vivid still-life portrait. Artifice often weaves itself into an authentic life, manifesting as one’s artistic lens to navigate trials and tribulations — a rose-coloured vision. Shaped by one’s past, present and future, these choices reveal their meaning under close observation. After all, the everyday reads mundane until you take a closer look.
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