In the realm of luxury fashion, it is no longer considered a novelty to play with elements of subversion. Between the different cultures luxury fashion has co-opted in the past, from streetwear to the banality of the everyday wardrobe, Kim Jones leans into the grandeur of Dior Men — its legacy and archives — to present a majestic Dior Men Fw25 collection befitting of its namesake.
This season, Dior is fully in touch with a fantasy endearingly out of reach. Informed of its history but far from being presented as historical recreations, Jones delves into Dior’s Ligne H from 1954 to present an unadulterated vision rooted in Monsieur Dior’s approach to dressing women. Inspired by the letter H, the goal was to elongate the silhouette through a lengthened bodice, cinched waist and widened hips — a recurring structure that appeared throughout the collection. Upon first impression, the Dior Men FW25 collection appears significantly more formal than previous seasons in both the designs and set.
As if the blindfolds worn by the models symbolised a need to pull focus and retreat from distractions, the exquisite tailoring becomes more pronounced in a clean palette of black, white, beige and a whisper of pink. Taking cues from the Casanova persona, the ‘ladies’ man’ is a double entendre in highlighting its fluid interplay between femininity and masculinity, flowing between elements that are pompous yet utilitarian. Pretty pink bows adorn boxy blousons and wrap blazers, juxtaposing theatricality with tenderness. This is carried over to the masculine hardware that adorn soft leather bags and leather dress shoes that feature a satin toe cap.
Another key element that defines this standout collection is the sculptural, seamless collars seen on coats and leather jumpers. Impeccably moulded to resemble a shawl that tapers along one’s neck, this detail stands as yet another refined demonstration of the Maison’s craftsmanship. Details are purposefully ornate, with embroidery that references a Haute Couture look from 1948 and glass beads that resemble a sprinkling of raindrops, seen on wool parkas and blazers.
Overall, Dior Men FW25 conveys a visceral, tactile take on opulence, one that does not require imagination to witness. Rather than looking far and wide for new angles to reinvent the line, Jones’ decision to look inwards resulted in an honest tale — a believable fantasy rooted in what Dior does best.