There is a Chinese proverb that goes: same bed, different dreams — indicating that even in the same settings and semblance of accord, different aspirations may arise. Similarly, even when dressed in the same garments, the way we occupy space differs.
In Zegna’s Oasis of Linen, the plurality of the human spirit is spotlighted under circumstances that empower freedom of movement, amid manmade creations assuming their forms as backdrops, serving as mere momentos of our lived experience. In honour of delicate linen and its dynamic qualities — sturdy yet soft; plush yet deliciously rough — Zegna embraces the idea of breaking up the rigidity of what it means to wear a uniform for Spring/Summer ’25. It proposes that, rather than for the sake of performative collectivism, the nuanced variance in our lives becomes evident over time.
Its introduction itself at Milan Fashion Week last June was deliberate and intriguing: an industrial space sets the scene representing a stark space devoid of humanity. Within these confines is a sprawling linen field, which upon closer inspection is not comprised of natural flax plants. Varnished in Zegna’s Sentiero yellow, each linen blade is engineered with metal, rendering this oasis an uncanny, lifeless state that deliberately betrays its natural origins. Stripped away from organic elements, the paradox of something manmade yet lacking in humanity is highlighted. This becomes artistic director Alessandro Sartori’s controlled experiment, proposing a simple hypothesis: a man’s creation does not by default render things humane.
Functionality resides at the heart of Zegna, especially in this collection that both intersects and juxtaposes human nature with industrialism. The question at hand is not to blend in nor stand out, but to imbue ourselves with an attitude of universality. Referencing linen in its versatile state of being both soft and sturdy, the goal is to move through all ebbs and flows in free form. At first glance, the entire collection possesses a pizzazz that encourages movement. Designed to encompass more than just midsummer soirees and air-conditioned indoor spaces, Spring/Summer ’25 has a wardrobe that defines a well-lived summer. In a palette of rich terracottas, cumins, camels and creams, linen and silk blends exist beyond their thin, flimsy form that clings to the body lifelessly. Summer suits commanded a sense of wool-like sturdiness without stuffiness.
Bound to glisten with sweat in the summertime, the collarbone and chestline are exposed with opened stand collars featured in this season’s outerwear. Rather than exaggerating or concealing the body, silhouettes gently caress the form without adding bulkiness. Discreet slit pockets on linen blazers are created with the use of darts and seams, further extending the ineffable quality of lightness. When visible, welt and patch pockets are placed lower on the bodice for a more relaxed impression — allowing for more intuitive interactions beyond an aesthetic decision. Zegna’s signature Il Conte jacket now comes in linen and sleeveless options, fashioned as a casual gilet in anticipation of sweltering heat.
Relaxed, free-flowing and unrestrictive best describe the bottoms of this collection. Roomy trousers and short shorts propose a playfulness that liberates motion. Longer days in the sun usher in a spirit of spontaneity, where the limbs are free to chase, relax or lounge in the heat. T-shirts and loose linen knits double as lightweight pieces to layer with, showcasing the label’s sartorial flair. The only recurring motif in this collection is an abstract botanical print, seamlessly executed on matching shirts and shorts, further blurring the lines between man, craft and how they coexist.
Leather accessories display a sense of pragmatism rooted in wanderlust. As the only footwear that encompassed every look in this collection, the moccasin is cemented as an endlessly versatile option that takes the wearer from the great flax plains to the financial district. These shoes come in an array of finishes reminiscent of river pebbles. All bags are equipped with longer shoulder straps for ease. Oversized duffles in supple suede and shiny leather are the accessories du jour for the Zegna man. Soft, yet structured, these voluminous carry-alls take on a weathered appearance, as though broken in from the journeys, yet are strong enough to last a lifetime of adventures.
Zegna proposes a Summer uniform that rejects the notion of singularity. Of its unapologetic Italian flair and effortless cuts, the point is not to blend in and erase individuality for the sake of a collective identity — but rather serve as a starting point to highlight our humanity from within. Upfront in its approach to sensuality, it is not the fantasy element that makes Zegna appealing to its core audience, instead, it is the unpreciousness it conveys. Far from understated, the all-natural hues and intentional use of materials proclaim an unwavering sense of universality. These designs are meant to be worn and experienced, not merely because they make for good Instagram posts. In practice, these clothes are meant to wrinkle and conform to one’s lived experience, rooting themselves in realism rather than an aspirational version that live only in fantasies.